What paver patio sealing should actually involve
Sealer matched to the unit and the exposure, at the right rate.

What actually goes wrong
When a paver surface goes wrong in Florida, the pavers are rarely the thing that failed. Water got into the base, the base moved, and the surface followed it down. Fix the surface only and you are back in two years.
The water table sits high across a lot of the coast, so there is less room for water to go down and more reason for it to move sideways. That is what takes the sand out from under a driveway edge.
Mature trees are the second cause. Roots go where the water is, and a paver base holds moisture, so they grow straight into it and push the surface up.
So the real question to ask anybody bidding this work is not what pavers they use. It is how deep they excavate, how they compact, and where they think your water goes. The answers tell you everything about how long the job will last.
How we run this job
We come look at it
Somebody from the crew walks the property with you, looks at where water goes, and tells you what we actually see. If the fix is smaller than you were expecting, we will say so.
You get the plan in writing
Everything in writing up front: what we are doing, what it is made of, how long it takes, and what it costs. Nothing changes without you signing off on it.
We build the base first
Excavation to the depth the job needs, compacted aggregate in lifts, and a screeded bedding layer. This is the part nobody sees and the part that decides whether the surface is still flat in ten years.
Pavers go down and get cut in
The field goes down to the pattern, edge cuts happen on site, and the perimeter gets a restraint so nothing creeps.
Joints get filled and the site gets cleaned
Sand swept in and compacted, surface washed, debris hauled by us. You get the property back the way we found it, minus the problem.

What makes a patio last
A patio carries people and furniture rather than vehicles, so the base can be shallower than a driveway. What it cannot be is badly drained. A patio that holds water grows algae, gets slick, and pushes moisture back at the house.
Fall away from the building is the whole game. A patio wants a gentle slope carrying water into the yard, never toward a slab or a door threshold. On a tight lot with no fall available that means a channel drain or a permeable section built in from the start.
Furniture is the quiet load. Table and chair legs concentrate weight on a tiny footprint and will dish an under-compacted patio in a season. Sun umbrellas with heavy bases are the usual culprit.
Compaction in lifts is the difference between ten years and two.
Water is the thing that ends most paver surfaces, and it almost never arrives from where people expect. It is rarely the rain landing on the pavers, because a properly jointed field sheds most of that. It is the downspout discharging at the edge, the irrigation head spraying the same spot twice a day, or the neighboring grade sending runoff across the corner.
Fall matters more than people think. A paver surface wants a slope of roughly an eighth to a quarter inch per foot away from the building. That is subtle enough that you will not notice it walking on it and steep enough that water leaves instead of standing. Get it flat and you get puddles; get it backwards and you send water at the foundation.
Where the water goes once it leaves the surface is a real design question. On a tight lot with no fall available, that can mean a channel drain across the low edge, a permeable section that lets water through into a stone reservoir, or a regrade of the adjacent planting bed. All of those are cheaper to build now than to retrofit.
Compaction
Aggregate goes down in lifts and each one gets compacted. One dump and a quick pass gives you a crust over loose material.
Fall
Roughly an eighth to a quarter inch per foot away from the building. Invisible underfoot, decisive for where water ends up.
Restraint
A perimeter edge restraint is what stops the field creeping outward and the joints opening from the outside in.
More patio work
We cover this across the region. A few of the areas we work most:
What it asks of you afterwards
A paver surface that was built properly asks for very little. Keep the joints topped up, keep organic debris from composting in them, and deal with a settled area while it is small. That is genuinely most of it.
Sealing is optional and it is a preference rather than a requirement. It deepens the color, makes stains easier to lift, and helps hold joint sand. It also needs redoing every few years and a bad sealer choice can leave a plastic-looking sheen or trap moisture. We will tell you honestly whether your surface benefits.
The thing worth acting on quickly is a trip hazard. A lifted edge of more than about a quarter inch is something somebody will catch a toe on, and on a commercial property that is a liability question as well as a maintenance one.
Travertine is the one people ask for around pools, and for a good reason: it stays noticeably cooler underfoot than concrete in direct sun. It is a natural stone, so there is variation between units, and it wants a sealer if it is somewhere that gets oil or heavy staining.
Porcelain is the newest of these in residential work. It is dense, absorbs almost nothing, and is close to stain-proof. It needs precise base work because it is unforgiving of an uneven bed, and cutting it takes the right blade and patience.
Concrete pavers are the workhorse and cover most of what gets installed. Widest range of shapes and colors, most predictable to lay, and the easiest to match later. Color is pigment through the unit, so it fades gently with sun rather than wearing off, though it does shift over the first year or two as it cures out.
The shortcuts that surface two years later
None of these are visible on the day the work finishes, which is exactly why they keep happening.
Using the wrong sand in the bedding
Bedding wants sharp, angular concrete sand. Rounded mason sand or beach sand behaves like ball bearings under load and lets the pavers wander.
Sealing too early
A new concrete paver needs to cure and let its efflorescence work out before it gets sealed. Seal it in the first month and you can lock a white haze under the sealer permanently.
Laying over the old surface
It is quick, it is cheap, and it inherits every problem underneath. If the base was the reason the old surface failed, putting a new one on top of it just hides the failure for a season.
Skipping the geotextile
A separation fabric between the subgrade and the base stops the two from mixing. Without it, fine soil migrates up into the aggregate, the base loses its structure, and you get settlement that no amount of surface work will fix.
The edge restraint is the piece nobody thinks about and the reason the field holds.
Common questions
Will the new pavers match what I already have
Sometimes exactly, sometimes closely. Concrete pavers change color a little with sun and age, and older lines get discontinued. If we cannot match, we will show you the options before we order anything, including pulling units from a less visible area to patch a visible one.
What happens to the old surface
We break it out and haul it off. Concrete and old pavers go to a recycler where one is available. That is included in the scope, not added on after.
How do you keep it from settling again
By fixing the reason it settled. That usually means correcting drainage and rebuilding the base properly, and sometimes it means dealing with a root or a downspout that is dumping water in the wrong place.
Do you work with HOAs and property managers
Regularly. We are used to submittals, board timelines, and phasing work so residents keep access. Tell us what your approval process looks like and we will work inside it.
Do you cover Miami, FL
Yes. Miami, FL is inside our regular working area and we are out that way most weeks. Call and we will tell you honestly when we could get to you.
Is there a warranty
Yes, in writing, covering our workmanship. Manufacturer coverage on the pavers themselves comes from the manufacturer and we will hand you that paperwork too. We will also tell you plainly what a warranty does not cover, like a new root or a changed drainage condition.
Start with a conversation
Call and describe it, or send pictures. You will get a straight answer about what is wrong and what it takes to put right, including when the honest answer is that it can wait a year.
Quality you can stand on