Pool Deck Drainage Installation done so it stays flat
Deck drainage that moves water away from the coping and the house.
What actually goes wrong
The failure is almost always below the pavers. Sand washes out of the joints, water gets down into the bedding, the bedding migrates, and the surface drops. Everything you can see is downstream of that.
The soil here is sand, and sand moves when water flows through it. Add South Florida’s habit of dropping a lot of rain in a short burst and the base under a paver surface is working much harder than it would up north. That is why the base gets so much of our time.
Then there are roots. A paver base keeps moisture under the surface, and a mature tree nearby will find it. As the roots thicken inside the base, they heave the pavers up.
So the real question to ask anybody bidding this work is not what pavers they use. It is how deep they excavate, how they compact, and where they think your water goes. The answers tell you everything about how long the job will last.
How we run this job
We come look at it
We come to you and look at the surface in person. The water path gets as much attention as the pavers themselves. You will get a plain account of what we see, and we will not inflate a small problem into a big job.
You get the plan in writing
Scope, materials, schedule, and cost on paper before a shovel moves. The number you approve is the number, not an opening position.
We build the base first
Dig to depth, compact the aggregate in layers, screed the bedding. Nobody ever sees this part again, which is exactly why most failures start here.
Pavers go down and get cut in
The field goes down to the pattern, edge cuts happen on site, and the perimeter gets a restraint so nothing creeps.
Joints get filled and the site gets cleaned
Sand swept in and compacted, the surface washed down, and the property left the way we found it. We haul our own debris.
Where the water goes when it rains here
If you watch one part of the install, watch the base go in. Aggregate should arrive in thin layers, a few inches each, with the compactor running over every layer before more is added. A crew that dumps the whole depth and runs one pass over the top is leaving loose material underneath a firm crust. That base will look perfect and behave for about a year before patches start dropping.
On site the order runs backwards from what you end up seeing. We dig out to the subgrade, the native soil, and check it. We bring in crushed aggregate and compact it into a base, which is the layer that actually carries the surface. We screed a thin bed of sharp sand dead flat on top. Only then do the pavers go down. They are the wearing surface and the part people photograph, and they sit on top of the work that holds everything up.
Base depth is the most important number on a paver quote, and you cannot check it once the job is done. It should change with the load. A path that only ever sees people needs less, a driveway taking a loaded pickup every day needs more, and a commercial drive for delivery trucks needs more again. When two quotes differ, ask each contractor what depth they priced and why. A good one has an answer tied to your traffic.
If nobody talks to you about drainage, they are quoting a different job.
Joint sand is the last step on a patio, which is exactly why it gets rushed. Polymeric sand binds once it is wet and resists washout better than plain sand, so it is what most jobs use now. The catch is the cleanup. It goes in dry, the surface gets swept properly, and the water goes on the way the manufacturer specifies. Skipping ahead is how a new patio ends up hazy.
Joint sand looks like filler between the pretty parts, and it does more work than anything else you can see. Sand packed into the joints is how one paver hands part of its load to the ones around it, and that sharing is what turns loose units into a surface. Lose the sand and the sharing stops. Each paver bears its own load, and that is exactly when rocking and cracking begin.
Compaction
Layered, then compacted, then layered again. One load spread and run over once looks finished and leaves loose material below the crust.
Fall
Away from the building, always, at about an eighth to a quarter inch per foot. That small slope decides where every storm ends up.
Restraint
A perimeter edge restraint is what stops the field creeping outward and the joints opening from the outside in.
More drainage work
We bring this work to properties across the region. A few places that keep us busy:
What it asks of you afterwards
Plenty of good paver jobs are never sealed. Unsealed concrete pavers weather to a softer color and the joints still do their job if they are kept topped up. Sealing earns its keep where stains are likely, around a grill or under a parked car, and where you want a darker, richer color. Ask us and we will give you a straight read on your surface.
Walk your pavers now and then and look along the edges. If any paver has lifted more than about a quarter inch, treat it as urgent, because that is the height where people start catching their toes. For anyone managing a commercial property, it is a liability matter as much as upkeep.
A well-laid surface mostly looks after itself. What it does need is joints that stay full, so add sand when you see it dropping, and attention to any low spot before it spreads. Catching settling early keeps the repair small.
Where it fits, porcelain is a very low-fuss surface to own. Spills sit on top instead of soaking in, because the material absorbs almost nothing. The work is all on the install side: precise base preparation, a perfectly even bedding course and careful cutting with the right blade.
Most of what we put down is concrete pavers. They come in more shapes and colors than any other option and lay up predictably. Years later, when you want to add on or patch, they are also the easiest to match. The pigment runs all the way through each unit, so sun softens the color over time and there is no surface coat to wear through.
Sun fades color that was added to a material. Clay brick has none added: its color is the fired clay, which is why it holds essentially forever. It runs more expensive and offers fewer shapes, and it suits anyone who wants the same look in twenty years.
What we see when somebody else did it
A finished job hides all of these. Because nobody can spot them at handover, they keep showing up on paver work.
Using the wrong sand in the bedding
If pavers are wandering out of line, check the bedding. It should be angular concrete sand with sharp grains. Rounded mason or beach sand rolls under load and lets them move.
Sealing too early
Sealer works like a lid. Put it on a new concrete paver too early, in the first month, and whatever efflorescence has not come out yet gets trapped underneath as a permanent white haze. Let the pavers cure first.
Laying over the old surface
It is quick, it is cheap, and it inherits every problem underneath. If the base was the reason the old surface failed, putting a new one on top of it just hides the failure for a season.
Skipping the geotextile
We put a geotextile down on the subgrade before any base goes in. Its whole purpose is separation. Soil stays below, aggregate stays above, and the base keeps the structure it was compacted into. Leave it out and the mixing happens slowly and does not reverse.
A sunken paver is a symptom. The base under it is the disease.
Common questions
Will the new pavers match what I already have
You will know before we order anything. Plenty of repairs match exactly. Others come close, since concrete pavers shift color a little with sun and age and older lines get discontinued. When close is not good enough, we can move units from a less visible area onto the visible patch.
What happens to the old surface
That part is on us. The existing surface gets broken out and hauled off the property, and concrete and pavers go to recycling when there is a recycler in the area. It is covered in the scope you sign.
How do you keep it from settling again
Settled pavers almost always point to something underneath. We trace it, whether it is drainage, a soft base or a root moving in, and fix that first. Pavers go back down only once the reason for the dip is gone.
Do you work with HOAs and property managers
Your rules come first. We regularly work for associations and property managers, which means board timelines and submittals are routine for us. Share your approval process and we will schedule the work, in phases if needed, so residents keep access.
Do you cover Miami, FL
We do. Miami, FL is home base for us, and our crews are in the area most weeks. Call with what you have in mind and we will be straight with you about timing.
Is there a warranty
We do offer one, in writing, on the workmanship. The manufacturer handles the warranty on the pavers, and that documentation comes to you from us. We also tell you now what is not covered, things like roots or drainage that change after we finish, so it never comes as a surprise.
Start with a conversation
Send pictures to info@paverson.com or call 786-717-9244 and describe what is going on. We will give you a clear answer on what is wrong and what it would take to fix, even when the answer is to leave it for now.
Quality you can stand on